Few days ago I nearly jumped when my host mom, Sima, announced that she is going to naming ceremony (kullyio) and that I am welcomed to come there too! The naming ceremony was for her sister’s husband’s newborn in another village, Batukunku, not too far from our village. The naming ceremony usually is performed 6-7 days after the birth (when possible). In Christianity it can be compared to christening. The baby girl was named Fatumata (first girl in the family). First boy in the family is usually named Mohamed/Lamin although it is not always the case.
After the lunch I rushed to put my only African outfit (completoo) that I got made for the swear-in. I was going there with my other host mom, Juju, because Sima went there a day before to help with preparation. Juju was wearing bright red completoo decorated with gold embroidery which suited her perfectly.
The place was not too far but to get there we had to switch three gelli gellis. First one got us to Brikama garage where we boarded a second one. Even though I already got used to the transportation conditions here, this vehicle amazed me. None on the interior details seemed original except for the vehicle body. It looked like it was assembled of different scrap pieces and so beat up that I would never think that it can possibly run, but it did! We waited some time for the car to fill with passengers. They usually do not depart half empty. The vehicle was approached by dozens of sellers who were selling water, doughnuts, ‘ices’ (frozen juice), bananas, peanuts, creams, towels, rugs, curtains and other things. I could do all the shopping while waiting in the car.
Time to go! The driver sat into his seat, put key in, turned it and all we heard was burh burh burh… The car did not start. I sat behind the driver and noticed that the battery light was on – minor problem. The driver tried again and again – nothing. The passengers started murmuring quietly and looking around wishing for the vehicle just to work. Next the driver shouted then talked with a guy outside and we felt the push at back of the car. Burh, burh, burh and gelli gelli started. Valio! We slowly exited the garage (car park). Few times on the way it felt that vehicle would shut down. In addition, the driver had difficulty with shifting (the gear box seem to have problem as well). As we approach the stop points I notice that the he is very careful stopping (slowly, slowly). Hmmm..breaks are weak?? Anyway, I relaxed in the thought that the next village is not that far away and were are not going on the highway so whatever happened it would be fine. Well, before hitting the road we stopped at the gas station. Slowly, slowly rolled in and stopped perfectly next to the pump. With engine running we got some gas put in the vehicle. The gas tank of the car was under me and I was praying for the car not to blow up. This was a third vehicle that I had been onto and which stopped to put some gas in fully loaded with passengers – none of them turned the engines off during the gas transfer. Hmm… in USA it is considered dangerous and might cause an explosion but not in the Gambia. We slowly but surely reached the second town - Sanyang. Our next gelli gelli was ready to depart and had only few seats left – for us! The vehicle was not different from the previous one. In addition, this one had the exhaust fumes going from under the car to all the sides. I kept telling myself to trust the people who operated the vehicle - they know it better than I do.
We reach the naming ceremony safely and in one piece. The compound yard and house were filled with people – mostly women and children. Women were wearing their best clothes (completoos) of vibrant colors and large pieces of jewelry. The colors were bright, intense and looked so beautiful on them (with their dark skin). We greeted Sima’s family members and were offered a meal (rice with fish and vegetables). Three of us shared the bowl in the entrance room that was constantly passed by people who stopped and greeted us. Quickly we stuffed our stomachs, chatted with few women (I just listened) and moved outside where I got to hold a sleeping beauty responsible for the celebration. Outside the compound the men with drums were inviting for the dance. The crowd of children and women (men do not usually dance together with women) gathered in the circle around them. In a few minutes the singing started followed by hand clapping and dance. There is so much energy and joyfulness during this part of the celebration. Women by one, two, and more dance in the middle of the circle… Sometimes during the dance women handed small bills of dalasi to the family (a tradition). The dancing lasts only few minutes - next dancer replaced the previous one and so on. Lots of drumming, laughing and clapping. The dancing was interrupted several times by gift money calculation and the naming of the gifts, the newborn received. I understood that the dance, in addition, is geared towards collecting the money and wishing all the best for the newborn. Some traditions and meaning of gesture I was not able to clarify with my family because of my poor language skills but as soon as I find out I will put it on my blog. The dancing ended together with the sunset and we rushed home while the gelli gelli are still in operation. About an hour later I was continuing the evening together with my family on their porch.
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