Two weeks of beauty, adventure, and excellent food! Visiting
Morocco has been on my mind since I can remember and, like most of the
volunteers in The Gambia, I used the opportunity of being so close to visit it.
I went with Jen, my fellow volunteer. After the long overland trip to Dakar (~11
hours), during which we took geli geli, taxi, ferry, taxi, motorcycle, setplas,
and again taxi, we found ourselves in
Dakar on the patio of the local restaurant at the beach side enjoying the ocean
and waiting for a plane. With the layover at Madrid we finally arrived at
Casablanca early afternoon of the following day. After having an amazing lunch
(chicken with fries, rice, sauce and olives) at the local restaurant next to
the train station, Casa Voyegeurs, we went to Fes the same day.
On the train we met a guy, Mohamed, who spoke perfect
English and told us a story how U.S people helped him to have heart surgery and
gave him new life. He also knew Peace Corps and talked highly about them. Mohamed
offered to arrange the stay for us in Fez (since we did not have
reservations). After promised PC
discount (still a bit outside our budget) we agreed to check it out. Well…when
I saw the place, Riad Rcif, I was speechless … we entered museum… or a
someone’s house few centuries back… The owner, Michel, gave us the tour of Riad
and we could not resist the temptation to stay here. The owner, interior
designer and restaurator, has worked on restoring the place for 8 years! So much patience and passion for his work!! The
following day we had the tasty breakfast on the terrace and with arranged guide
went out to explore the city. It was Friday, day-off, so most of the shops were
closed and there were no tourists to be seen. We had great time to explore
Medina and observe the daily life of Moroccans. The following day we visited
tanneries, widows’ carpet cooperative and other cooperatives; did some shopping
and practiced our bargaining skills. There are so much beautiful locally made
crafts and other stuff to adore and to buy: leather bags, shoes, cosmetics,
jewelry, clothes, blankets, scarfs, and others… Not being a passionate
shopaholic, I lost the interest and energy after several hours in this beautiful
world of color, pattern and noise. White cheese, harira, msemen, olives, and desserts
sold on the street are delicious!!!
Deprived by the variety of foods in the Gambia, my mind wishes were overran
by belly’s wishes to do food shopping and tasting than anything else.
The following day we went to Chefchaouen – a cozy blue town
in the Rif mountains. After four-hour
bus ride we arrived together with the rain. It was cold! The Medina, old part
of the town, is covered with sky blue color… Sometimes it looked like the
streets and houses are covered in blue snow… This small Medina radiates calm
and peace. It is also a place to go if you want to enjoy the joint (marihuana
is grown in Rif mountains). We got it offered quite a few times. We wondered
through the ‘blue city’ back and forth, visited waterfall, hiked to several
mosques and got attacked by the crowd of dogs on the way back. Our companion (whom
we met on the hike) had to beg the passer-by truck to give us a lift in the
back through angry dogs because nether me nor Jen could move terrified by them.
We had an excellent dinner at the local
eatery: Moroccan soup, mixed salad and shishkebabs. The salad included anything
one can wish for: mashed potatoes, rice, pasta, pickles, onions, tomatoes,
cucumbers, olives, tuna, meat, egg, cucumbers, carrots. One of the best meals
of the trip!
Next stop was Marrakesh.
We spent most of the day in a bus winding back through mountains to
Casablanca and then took a train to Marrakesh. The scenery changed from the
fields of wheat and orchards to the empty deserted area. After three hours
sweating on the train we were met by heat, tons of tourists, pushy sellers and
harassers. Neither of us liked Marrakesh,
especially Medina, that much after relaxing and low key atmosphere that of Fes
and Chefchaouen. So touristy and fake… We wondered streets a bit, found an
amazing bakery (see pictures) and café place in Gueliz, where we returned few
times. I fell in love with their chicken pastilla, which is similar to chicken
pie sprinkled with powder sugar and cinnamon. Not much to tell about the
city…Jamaa el-Fna was also very touristy and full of sellers - each of them pushing
to buy their things and food especially at night.
The following day we joined twelve others from Germany,
Australia, U.S., Mexico, and Morocco for the three-day trip to Merzouga, Sahara
Desert dunes. It was long ride on the van but we got to see large part of the
country. We passed Atlas Mountains, Ait Benhaddou, Ouazazarte,
Rose valley (although the roses were already harvested), Dades Gorge, Todra Gorge
(spent night there), Tinghir, Merzouga (Erg Chebbi
dunes). We arrived just before the sunset, got on the camels and traveled to
the desert camp. The dunes were incredible (picture perfect!). Well, we do have
gorgeous Kursiu Nerijos dunes in Lithuania but they do not have this deep
orange color of Erg Chebbi dunes. Upon arrival at the camp we climbed one of
the dunes to watch “the sun going to sleep”. Hosts prepared an incredible tagine dish of chicken, carrots, potatoes,
spices and peas, which we could not finish. It was a warm night so we slept
outside under the stars. I woke up in the middle of the night to see the Milky
Way so clear and bright. We got up after 5am so we could meet the sun rising on
the way to the guesthouse. After filling
breakfast of mseman with jam, olives, bread and coffee, and long car ride
we reached Marrakesh in the evening.
Next morning we left for Setti Fatma, a small
village in Ourika Valley, about 67 km outside of Marrakesh. All the villages
along the way including Setti Fatma were full of people from Marrakesh who came
there to enjoy the weekend away from the city. On Monday the village was empty –
only locals and few tourists, including us, wondering around. We thankfully were
convinced by the restaurant owner to hire a guide for our endeavor to see
waterfalls. We would not have done it without him: unclear path, scary steep
slopes and rocks… During some parts I walked like “prikakojus kelnes” (sorry,
no translation). The views overlooking valley, village and Atlas Mountains were
worth all the effort! The guide spoke good English and told us all about the
area, people, his family and etc.
When back in Marrakesh we visited Majorelle
Gardens that is famous because of its recent owner – Yves Saint-Laurent. Pretty
colors of blue, yellow and orange but not that impressive. Casablanca appeared
very unwelcoming to us: constant stares, harassment… We visited Hasssan II Mosque,
which was truly magnificent. It is the biggest in Morocco and seventh biggest
in the world (see pictures=link above). Before coming to the Gambia we had
amazing ice cream at Oliveri Cafe (first attempt to have good ice cream at
another place failed). I promised to come back...and I rarely break promises:)
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